Well another sunny weekend here. This last week was a good one. I worked a lot, but it felt good since I've got so much to learn.
Bouldered Tuesday and Thursday last week out at Horsetooth. The Tropics area is my favorite. 1/4 mile band of cliff, which is highly featured and undercut.
Friday night I came home (Adams house) to find a keg party. It was fun. Saturday was a great day. Rui and I went to Boulder Canyon and did some great routes. I lead a 5.9 called Curvey crack. It had very slippery granite. A foot work lesson. Very sustained. Rui then tried Final exam (11a), which is almost a boulder problems. It was stumping Rui so I tried it and got it about 3rd try. It was 11a if you did it the right way. T he way we were originally trying it was reduculous. It was a very bulgy roof/layback. We could just reach up to this horrible finger lock, which neither one of us could do a thing with. I figured out a high step and gaston which made it easy.
Patty joined us with a couple of her friends. While Rui was cleaning the last route's anchor I lead a great 5.9 (name?) which reminded me of the 1st pitch of fastest gun in that it was pumpy. Patty and her friends worked on the 9, while Rui and I went and took a look at Country Club Crack. Wow, it is amazing. 180 foot crack which is nearly one continuous slightly leaning, overhanging feature. It loomed big. Rui had lead the 1st pitch several times so I took that pitch and he would do the top pitch (sustained looking overhanging crack). The 1st pitch begins with a very hard 11c face section protected by 2 bolts then goes into a really nice crack. Almost on-sighted it, but my foot slipped from the small greasey hold my first attempts, oh well. Got it second try and really enjoyed the crack section.. Great granite.
Rui came up and racked up for the long 100 foot crack pitch. He went through the first 30 feet pretty well and figuring out the On the Loose type climbing. He pumped out at the begining of the sustained handcrack. He asked if I wanted to try. Unlike with Walt on Lunatic Fringe I said yes. I got through the 1st 30 feet no problem, then hit the sustained crack. True singular handcrack leaning slightly left with bupcus for feet outside the crack. I launched into the jam fest. Wow, what a deal. 40 feet of very sustained hands (tight good jams) brings you to an intimidating roof. The exposed roof was not difficult just spooky because you couldn't see where you are going. It dumps you out in an amazing 5.11 finger crack section. Oh poo, it's not over. Shaking and panting I copped the best rest I could until I could rest no more. I fired up into the finger crack almost falling at one point in a lousey lock. I managed to reach the top out jugs filled with elation. Fantastic! I was psyched.
I highly recommend this route. When you guys visit, train at the web before you come because this is on the list of must do's.
Sunday I went to Flafstaff Mtn in Bounder. It was pretty hot and sunny. There were not many people bouldering (wimps). I bouldered a bit, than went to a bouldering area Rui showed me up the canyon. I had a blast working on some nice slopey problems. Again very quit. Had dinner in Nedderland (good food) and called it a day.
On the drive back through the canyon I stopped to take another peak at Country Club Crack. There was this muscular guy with headphones on getting ready to solo this 10d route next to CCC. He got up the imnitial 15 foot flake and was getting trying to get into the crux undercling up to thsi aweful slope (I saw it while on repel. His feet slipped and he just barely caught himself and got back to the flake. he tried several time with equal sketch factor. I had to watch from afar fearing I hear his body thus and bones break. He wisely decide that this was not the day and went home. Scary!
Hope all is well and that you got out and did something fun this week. I did!
PS. Only a couple weeks 'til my honey joins me. Can't wait!
Copyright 2001, 2002 Walt Heenan